Wine of the Month: A stonkingly good wine from Northamptonshire …

Produced in Northamptonshire from grapes grown in Essex, this is Fortieth Rule’s first release and it is a stonkingly good wine!

Fortieth Rule Chardonnay 2023, Northamptonshire (England)

This recent discovery from an independent family-run winery in Wellingborough, Northamptonshire is a little gem. Produced from grapes grown in Essex, this is Fortieth Rule’s first release and it is a stonkingly good wine.

With a beautiful nose of green apples redolent of a walk through an English orchard, and bright intense flavours of apple, pear and grapefruit, this is a smooth wine with medium acidity and a lengthy finish. A wine with character that is an excellent expression of an English Chardonnay with a nod to its Burgundian roots.

It’s perfect to drink by itself, or as a pairing with grilled fish, a chicken dish, or grilled vegetables.

And if you are wondering about the name, it is based on the Fortieth Rule of St Benedict, which stipulated that monks should ‘know their measure’ when it came to drinking alcohol! As true today as it was in St Benedict’s day!

Available from FORTIETH RULE (www.fortiethrule.com) (£25) NB Free local delivery for orders to CB1-CB5 postcodes with code CBDELIVER

Oz Clarke: English Wine – from still to sparkling

An ideal gift for a wine lover who is keen to learn more about the newest New World wine country – England (and Wales). Oz Clarke’s ‘English Wine – from still to sparkling’ tells the story of the transformation of the wine scene on this fair island over the last few decades.

Starting with a history of English wine from how it used to be, Clarke takes the reader through the Nyetimber Effect and the changes it heralded to where we are now. There’s a great section on location and a comprehensive overview of vineyards and wineries across England and Wales, with lots of useful information, including contact details, wine recommendations etc.

All you ever wanted to know about English (and Welsh) wine – all in one place. A great book. And the perfect gift for your favourite wine lover!

Waterstones £20

For other great gift ideas featuring English & Welsh wines, whether bottles, cases or wine tastings, visit Grape Britannia

Wine of the Month

Gutter & Stars, Daylight Upon Magic, Chardonnay 2020

Cambridge is known for many things but who would have thought it was also the home of an urban winery! Journalist and winemaker Chris Wilson established Gutter & Stars in 2020, and last year released his first small batch vintages, each bottle numbered individually.

Having been really impressed by a very appealing, well-balanced Bacchus and a fresh, juicy and well-rounded Pinot Noir, I was really looking forward to the release of the winery’s first Chardonnay last autumn … and I wasn’t disappointed!

This is an outstanding wine, another roaring success for Gutter & Stars. Made from grapes grown in Crouch Valley, Essex, this is a crisp, vibrant and refreshing wine with vanilla, citrus and stone fruit aromas on the nose, and apple, pear, peach and apricot on the palate. With a hint of toastiness from the oak, and a creamy mouthfeel, it is an elegant and well-balanced wine. The wine is a cracking example of just how good an English Chardonnay can be.  

I have no hesitation in recommending this excellent Chardonnay as my Wine of the Month.

Available from Grape Britannia (£26.99)

Chardonnay, a ubiquitous grape variety that can also be gloriously, differently English …

When Hugh Johnson (Pocket Wine Book 2021) described Chardonnay as ‘the white grape of Burgundy and Champagne, now ubiquitous worldwide, partly because it is one of the easiest to grow and vinify’, I wonder whether he was also thinking of Chardonnay grown in England?

In the early 1950s there were a few short-lived attempts to grow Chardonnay in Hampshire and Surrey but the climate didn’t help much. Since the 80s and 90s more and more growers have given Chardonnay a go and have been very successful. But these for the most part were grapes used to produce sparkling wines, often very good ones too. Indeed, many of these sparkling wines have gone on to win all kinds of awards and beaten some very good Champagnes to boot!

But what about still wines? While we haven’t yet seen quite the same volumes as with sparkling wines, there are some very good Chardonnay still wines available nowadays. As Oz Clarke rightly notes in his excellent book ‘English Wine’, the best Chardonnays in England don’t taste like Chablis or Meursault, they taste ‘gloriously, differently English.’

And here is a very good example: Jack O’ The Green Chardonnay 2018

Produced from grapes grown in East Sussex, this is a refreshing wine with aromas of lime and apple on the nose, leading to apple, gooseberry, peach and vanilla on the palate. A smooth wine with medium acidity and a lengthy finish, it has real character, just like its name. This is a very appealing wine that’s a perfect match for seafood or grilled vegetables.

Available from Grape Britannia

Winbirri, from Anglo-Saxon ‘win’ (wine) and ‘birri’ (grape); synonym for excellent wine.

If you have enjoyed the English white wines we have recently featured, why not try an English red this weekend?

Winbirri Signature 2017 (Norfolk)

This is a very good wine. Although it might look and taste like a Rioja, it isn’t a Rioja. It’s made from Dornfelder grapes grown in Norfolk. Dornfelder was created by August Herold in 1955 when he crossed Helfensteiner and Heroldrebe grape varieties, and is one of Germany’s most successful red grape crossings. It is most commonly found in the Rheinhessen and Pfalz regions of the country. Dornfelder wines are typically light bodied, deeply coloured, fruity wines with oak flavours and a hint of spice.

This Winbirri Signature 2017 has ripe plum, blackberry and vanilla with notes of coffee and spice on the nose, and blackberry, cherry and a hint of toastiness on the palate. It’s a well-structured, medium-bodied wine with medium tannin, medium acidity and a long, smooth finish. A perfect match for a Sunday roast, or with cheese.

Available from Grape Britannia. £14.99

Great wines on our doorstep – now’s the time to try English & Welsh wines

June is a good time to celebrate at the best of times – the weather is usually quite pleasant, gardens are awash with colour and with the Summer Solstice and Midsummer’s Day in quick succession, there are plenty of reasons to crack open a bottle. And this year June just got even better – with Welsh Wine Week this week (4-13 June) and English Wine Week fast approaching (19-27 June), now is a perfect opportunity to discover the delights that English & Welsh wines have to offer, and support our nation’s wine growers, as well as local wine retailers and other businesses, at the same time.

English and Welsh wines have come of age. Although wine making on our island has been around for centuries, even twenty years ago, you’d find few people who had much praise for English (and Welsh) wines.  Then came the Nyetimber effect when a couple of enterprising Americans decided they could produce sparkling wine in a part of England where the soil and climate were similar to those in Champagne and set about proving it, and the rest, as they say is history. Fast forward to 2021 and there are some absolute delights to tempt your palate, both in terms of sparkling and still wines.

I had an opportunity recently to take part in an online wine tasting featuring English and Welsh wines, run by Steve Hovington from Cambridge Wine Academy. Steve is a very knowledgeable and entertaining presenter and it was an interesting, informative and very enjoyable evening. We covered a range of wines – white, red and rosé – and it was a real eye-opener. I hadn’t realised that there are such high quality wines being produced on this sceptered isle of ours; indeed, there were several wines that had it been a blind tasting, you might well have thought were from one of the more established wine-producing countries rather than from England or Wales.

English and Welsh wines are most definitely worth exploring. Here are a few to get you started:

Still Rosé by Hattingley 2020

This is a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Noir Précoce and Pinot Meunier grapes grown on the chalky soil of Hattingley Valley in Hampshire. Pink salmon in colour with aromas of raspberry, cherry and a hint of pear drops on the nose, and flavours of raspberry and strawberry, with creamy notes, on the palate, the wine is well-balanced with ripe fruit flavours and vibrant acidity. A light, refreshing wine with a long finish. Perfect for a summer’s evening and if you closed your eyes, you could be forgiven for thinking this was a Provençal rosé.

Available from Grape Britannia (£15.99)

White Castle Pinot Noir Reserve, Monmouthshire, 2018

I think this is probably the first Welsh wine I have tried. And what a fine example it is. No wonder it’s an Oz Clarke favourite – it’s a very impressive wine. This Pinot Noir Reserve 2018 is made from Pinot Noir Précoce grapes and has aromas of red berries and vanilla, with a hint of oak and smokiness on the nose, and ripe red fruit flavours of raspberry and strawberry on the palate. It is a light, well-balanced wine which will go perfectly with Welsh lamb or a cheese platter.

Available from Grape Britannia (£27.50)

Knightor Three Barrel Bacchus 2019

Well, if you can’t get to Cornwall right now, let Cornwall come to you! This very aromatic, off-dry Bacchus (great name for a grape variety!) has a different character from a typical Bacchus wine and with its high level of residual sugar, is reminiscent of a German Kabinett wine. It has quite pronounced peach and elderflower aromas on the nose leading to crisp, red apple and elderflower flavours, with a hint of oak, on the palate. A well-balanced wine with a long finish, this Three Barrel Bacchus is a perfect match for Cornish cheeses and fruity desserts.

Available from Grape Britannia (£16.99)

One other wine which was hugely impressive was the Gutter & Stars Bacchus 2020, I Wanna Be Adored, and all the more so since this was Cambridge-based Gutter & Stars debut vintage. Cambridge is known for many things but who would have thought it was also the home of an urban winery! It was a very appealing well-balanced wine but with only 400 bottles produced for this first vintage, it has quickly sold out. However the winery is set to release two more wines this year – a Pinot Noir and a Chardonnay – so keep an eye out for these.

Look out for more reviews of English and Welsh wines in the coming weeks. Cheers!

Looking for something to brighten up these dark, grey January days? This little bit of sunshine from Surrey is just the ticket.

Denbies’ Surrey Gold

If you’re looking for something to brighten up these dark, grey January days, this little bit of sunshine from Surrey is just the ticket. It’s also a great opportunity to branch out from firm favourites such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay, and explore something different – a good old English wine.

Denbies’ Surrey Gold is a blend of Müller-Thurgau, Ortega and Bacchus grapes. Older readers might remember Müller-Thurgau from the 80s when Liebfraumilch and the like were all the rage in the UK. Believe me, this is a step up from those rather bland German wines of old.

Ortega is a Müller-Thurgau/Siegerrebe crossing which adds a touch of sweetness and aromatics to a blend. And Bacchus, a rising-star in English wine making, is another German crossing (Müller-Thurgau / Riesling-Silvaner), and brings flavour and character to a blend. (Great name for a grape variety, to boot!)

Denbies have been producing wine since the late 1980s and have grown to become the largest wine producer in the UK. They now produce over a million bottles of wine a year.

Surrey Gold is an off-dry white wine with intense floral aromas of elderflower and honeysuckle on the nose, and flavours of green apple, lemon and peach on the palate. There is also a pleasant flintiness and a hint of spice. The wine has medium acidity and a medium (+) finish, and is medium-bodied. The off-dry nature of the wine makes it a good match for a spicy or an Asian-inspired dish.

This is a great introduction to English wines.

Waitrose (£9.99)