There’s a lot more to Spanish red wine than Rioja. Not that there is anything wrong with a good bottle of Rioja of course. But if you are looking for something new, the Bobal varietal from south-eastern Spain is experiencing a revival.
Though it may not be very well-known internationally, Bobal is Spain’s second most-planted red varietal after Tempranillo and records show it was already being cultivated in the Valencia region as long ago as the fifteenth century.
Although it flourished in its homeland, on the international front Bobal was dismissed as a rather non-descript, rustic wine that was produced in bulk for a largely domestic market. However in recent years, the varietal has begun to see somewhat of a revival, thanks to a small group of dedicated producers and more effective marketing. Things are beginning to change for the better for Bobal, evidenced by its first panel tasting by Decanter magazine in April 2021.
Bobal is grown in the Levante region of Spain, on the Mediterranean coast south of Catalonia, where it flourishes in the Denominaciones de Origen (DOs) of Ribera del Jucar, Manchuela and particularly Utiel-Requena. The vineyards of this last DO are located on a plateau 600m-900m above sea level and some 70km inland from Valencia, where the altitude, climate and well-drained soils create a perfect growing environment for the grapes.
This Beso de Rechenna Bobal Crianza 2017 wine from Utiel-Requena DO is produced from old vine grapes that give low yields of intensely flavoured fruit. It has been aged for at least 24 months, 6 months of which were in oak barrels.
It’s a very appealing wine with herbaceous and red fruit aromas, with oak and tobacco notes on the nose, and flavours of cherry, plum, blackberry, and vanilla on the palate. A medium bodied wine with medium tannins, medium (+) acidity and a long finish, this is a well-balanced wine with excellent structure and complexity. A fine example of a resurgent indigenous grape variety that goes very well with lamb or a casserole.
Available from Slurp (£9.95)
