France’s little hidden gem – the wines of the Southwest

If you enjoyed the Cahors Malbec the other day, you might want to try these other wines from the southwest region of France. Lying between the Pyrenees and the Massif Central, and somewhat overshadowed by neighbouring Bordeaux, this area is a veritable cornucopia of interesting grape varieties, many not found elsewhere, and is in my view, a greatly under-rated wine producing region. The huge diversity of grape varieties and wine styles found here is what makes the region so compelling for the wine enthusiast. 

Mind you, the names don’t all roll off the tongue so easily. On the red side, for example, you have Fer Servadou (also known as Mansois, Braucol and Pinenc depending on locality), Duras, Malbec, Tannat, and Négrette. And on the white side, Mauzac, Len de l’El (Loin de l’Oeil), Arrufiac, Petit Courbu, and Gros / Petit Manseng are some of the indigenous grape varieties.

And with this wide variety of grapes, so too the wines they produce: from the sweet white wines of Monbazillac and the Merlot blends of Bergerac, to the historic ‘black wines’ of Cahors and the bold reds of Madiran, the dry and sweet white wines of Jurançon, at the foot of the Pyrenees, and the subtle and unique wines of the Gaillac appellation. There is something for everyone in this part of France and there are some wonderful dishes and cheeses to pair them with. It’s a gastronomic delight.

Ossau-Iraty, for example, goes well with a Gascony white; a light red Marcillac is a great match for a platter of cold meats; and duck confit with a Cahors or Madiran red go together like a horse and carriage. Try a chicken dish or seafood with a Gaillac white, and a cassoulet is a perfect match for a Gaillac red. 

Southwest France is an Aladdin’s cave of new discoveries and here are three wines from the region to whet your appetite. And all under a tenner!

Gaillac Rouge 2019, Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference

This dry red wine is a blend of local grape varieties Braucol and Duras, together with the more familiar Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. With aromas of blackberry and cherry, and a hint of peppery spice on the nose, and flavours of raspberry, black cherry and blackberry with a hint of vanilla on the palate. Medium-bodied, with medium tannins and medium alcohol, this is a well-balanced wine which will go well with a stew or casserole. Sainsbury’s £8

Jurançon Sec, Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference

Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Jurançon Sec 75cl

Tucked away in the foothills of the Pyrenees near the town of Pau, Jurançon has been known for its wines since the Middle Ages. This Jurançon Sec is a dry wine made from Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng grapes, both indigenous to the region. With aromas of apple, pear, peach and nectarine on the nose, and apple, pear and grapefruit on the palate, the wine has medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol and a medium (+) finish.

This is a well-balanced wine which can be served as an aperitif or with a spicy Asian dish. We enjoyed it with Korean Yangnyeom chicken – spicy, fried chicken. It’s a great introduction to this oft overlooked wine. Sainsbury’s £7.50

Gaillac Blanc 2019, Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference

Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Gaillac Blanc 75cl

This is another recent discovery. The Gaillac Blanc is made from the Len de l’El (Loin de l’oeil) grape, so called because the bunches of grapes hang quite low, so quite some way from the bud (the ‘eye’) they grew from. The grape is indigenous to the region and all Gaillac Blanc wines must contain at least a percentage of it to qualify for the appellation.

A crisp, dry white wine of medium (+) acidity, this is a medium bodied wine which is very well balanced. It has aromas of apple, pear, peach and orange on the nose, with apple, grapefruit and orange flavours, and a hint of flintiness on the palate. An excellent match for fish. Sainsbury’s £8

Looking for something to brighten up these dark, grey January days? This little bit of sunshine from Surrey is just the ticket.

Denbies’ Surrey Gold

If you’re looking for something to brighten up these dark, grey January days, this little bit of sunshine from Surrey is just the ticket. It’s also a great opportunity to branch out from firm favourites such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay, and explore something different – a good old English wine.

Denbies’ Surrey Gold is a blend of Müller-Thurgau, Ortega and Bacchus grapes. Older readers might remember Müller-Thurgau from the 80s when Liebfraumilch and the like were all the rage in the UK. Believe me, this is a step up from those rather bland German wines of old.

Ortega is a Müller-Thurgau/Siegerrebe crossing which adds a touch of sweetness and aromatics to a blend. And Bacchus, a rising-star in English wine making, is another German crossing (Müller-Thurgau / Riesling-Silvaner), and brings flavour and character to a blend. (Great name for a grape variety, to boot!)

Denbies have been producing wine since the late 1980s and have grown to become the largest wine producer in the UK. They now produce over a million bottles of wine a year.

Surrey Gold is an off-dry white wine with intense floral aromas of elderflower and honeysuckle on the nose, and flavours of green apple, lemon and peach on the palate. There is also a pleasant flintiness and a hint of spice. The wine has medium acidity and a medium (+) finish, and is medium-bodied. The off-dry nature of the wine makes it a good match for a spicy or an Asian-inspired dish.

This is a great introduction to English wines.

Waitrose (£9.99)

A Malbec – but not from Argentina …

Le Grand Retour, Malbec de Cahors 2018

Like most people you probably think of Argentina when you think of Malbec. That is hardly surprising since over 70% of wines produced from Malbec grapes are from the country. But its origin, of course, was France, southwest France, where once upon a time the ‘black wine’, as it was known, accounted for more than half of the exports from the port of Bordeaux. After a period of decline lasting several hundred years until the latter half of the 20th century, efforts were made to revive Malbec in its home region.

And very successful they were, too. By 1971, the Cahors region had achieved Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) status and rightly so. However, only around 4,000 hectares of the vineyards that are designated AOC Cahors cultivate Malbec grapes, and so Malbec from Cahors is not seen as much as its Argentinian cousin.

But this wine from Georges Vigouroux is an excellent example of what a Cahors Malbec can be. The Vigouroux family has been producing Malbec since 1887 and was instrumental in the work to raise the profile of the grape variety in the Cahors region from the 1940s.

Le Grand Retour (The Great Comeback) celebrates Malbec’s revival in Cahors. It is a dry wine with medium (+) acidity and medium tannins, and has aromas of blackberry, bramble and spice on the nose, and blackberry, jamminess and a hint of chocolate and liquorice on the palate. It is a well-balanced wine, medium-bodied, with a medium (+) finish and medium alcohol.

We enjoyed it with duck but it will go well with lamb, and it is a perfect match for cassoulet, the rustic pork and bean casserole from the region. Call me sentimental, but I do like to try wines with a back story and this is one that has a happy ending!  Majestic £11.99 (Mix Six £9.99)

Three recent discoveries to tempt your palate this New Year …

Why not try something different this New Year? Here are three interesting wines to tempt your palate …

Wishing you all a Happy, Healthy and Peaceful New Year and looking forward to sharing new discoveries with you in 2021!

Felsner Moosburgerin Grüner Veltliner 2019 (Austria)

For something a little different this New Year, this Grüner Veltliner white wine from Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) serves as an excellent aperitif and is a very good match for a seafood dish. A dry wine with medium (+) acidity, it has aromas of apple, pear, lemon and grapefruit, with a hint of pepper and peach on the palate.  It is well-balanced and has a long finish, and is a very good example of the high-quality yet reasonably priced wines you can find from Austria these days. Waitrose £12.49

Carménère 2019, Rapel Valley (Chile) M&S Classics 27

This M&S Classic Carménère 2019 is a very good example of Chile’s signature wine variety. A dry wine with medium (+) acidity, medium (+) tannins and medium (+) body, it has pronounced aromas of blackcurrant and blackberry with notes of vanilla, cedar and menthol on the nose; and hints of chocolate, spice and plum on the palate. The wine has a medium (+) finish and will pair very well with a hearty meat dish and/or roasted vegetables. It’s a steal at £8. Marks & Spencer.

Le Sabbie Dell’Etna Rosso, DOC Etna 2018 (Italy)

Italian wines never fail to surprise (and delight) me, and this is a little gem. Dry, with high acidity and medium tannins, this wine from the slopes of Sicily’s Mt Etna is a blend of Nerrelo Mascalese and Nerrelo Cappucio, and has pronounced aromas of redcurrant and red cherry, with hints of cedar and a touch of earthiness, on the nose, and intense flavours of raspberry and redcurrant, spice and cloves on the palate. A medium-bodied wine with a medium (+) finish. If you are looking for something to brighten up your new year, this is it! Waitrose (£12.99)

Twelve wines for Christmas

Although this year you may not be having quite as many family and friends coming to visit over the Christmas period, you’ll still want to have a few choice wines to enjoy with your food as well as a few bottles to savour when you’re watching your Christmas favourites or simply chilling out.

Apéritifs

If sherry is your pre-prandial tipple, the Don Gaspar Dry Amontillado Lustau from Waitrose (£11.99) has a pleasant nutty and dried fruit flavour on the palate with a hint of tanginess. Perfect with cured meats, manchego and olives.  

Tesco’s Finest Prosecco Valdobbiadene DOCG is very good value at £10. Produced from grapes grown on the steep limestone hills northwest of Venice, this is a refreshing sparkling wine with flavours of apple, pear and peach, and a smooth, lively fizz.

Or why not try a Monbazillac sweet white wine? The Château de Géraud, Monbazillac 2014 is a delightful blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle grapes. Soft and well-rounded, this dessert wine serves equally well as an apéritif.  Cambridge Wine Merchants (£13.99).

White wines

Though Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé wines are particular favourites of mine generally, notwithstanding any possible bias, the Pouilly Fumé Domaine Masson-Blondelet 2019 is a very good wine. Dry, with high acidity and flavours of apple, gooseberry, melon and a hint of minerality, this will match perfectly with white meat and fish dishes. Waitrose (£15.99)

The St Aubin Premier Cru Domaine Thomas 2018 white Burgundy is a very good wine with flavours of lemon, lime and peach, and buttery, toasty undertones.  A well-balanced wine, it has a textual richness that will handle the multitude of flavours associated with a festive turkey (or other richly flavoured dishes) perfectly well if you prefer white wine with your main. Waitrose (£25.99).

Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Marques de Almeida Albariño is a steal at £8.50. With fragrant fruity aromas and flavours of peach and tropical fruits, this is a dry, light and crisp wine that goes well with smoked salmon, and is perfectly fine by itself.

Red wines

With all the complex interplay of flavours associated with a traditional Christmas turkey lunch, a wine with lower tannins will cope better. The finely balanced tannin and acidity of the Mud House Pinot Noir 2019 from Central Otago in New Zealand has the fresh fruit flavours and dash of spice to be an excellent match for your turkey and trimmings. Majestic Wine (£13.99/ £10.99 Mix Six); Waitrose (£10.99)

A Beaujolais will go well with duck and this Fleurie Beaujolais 2018 Georges Duboeuf is tried and tested. A light, refreshing medium-bodied wine with medium acidity, the intense fruity flavours of raspberry and strawberry stand up well to the strong flavour of the meat. Majestic Wine (£12.99/ £10.99 Mix Six)

For something bolder, this Bardos Romantica Ribera del Duero 2017 (Crianza) Spanish Tempranillo is a very good full-bodied wine with intense black fruit flavours and a hint of spice and vanilla from the barrel ageing. It will hold its own with roast beef or similar strong flavours. Majestic Wine (£14.99 / £11.99 Mix Six)

Dessert wines

Christmas, especially this Christmas, is a time for indulgence. And what nicer indulgence than a glass of port? Taylor’s 10-year old Tawny Port has a fruity, nutty flavour to be enjoyed with cheese, dessert or post-lunch while watching the Queen’s speech. Well, anytime really. Waitrose (£22.49)

Another treat is the Hungarian Disznókö Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2017 from Waitrose (£19.99). This is a well-balanced, very good wine with flavours of peach, dried apricot, honey and orange peel. A perfect match for cheese or dessert. 

Or perhaps a Sauternes? Les Garonelles, Sauternes 2017 is a blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes. With flavours of passionfruit and apricot , it is an elegant, well-balanced wine which is a perfect pairing for dessert. Great Wine Co. (£11.50 half bottle).

Merry Christmas! Look out for more wine suggestions from around the world in 2021.  Cheers!

For Christmas gifts for wine-lovers, see here

Il est arrivé. It’s here – the 2020 Beaujolais Nouveau is out!

Made from Gamay grapes grown on the alluvial plains  of the Beaujolais region of Eastern France, Beaujolais Nouveau is specifically made for early drinking. Bottled just weeks after the grapes have been harvested, and using a wine-making technique known as carbonic maceration, the wine is typically lighter-bodied, fresh and fruity. 

The wines cannot be released for sale until the third Thursday in November … today … and though this year’s celebrations will be rather muted, typically Beaujolais Day is a good excuse to party, whether in Lyon, Paris, London, Tokyo, New York or elsewhere. 

I ordered my bottle of Jean Loron Beaujolais Nouveau 2020 in advance and was able to enjoy it earlier today. Here are my thoughts –  

the wine is medium purple in colour and has intense aromas of raspberry, strawberry and cranberry with a hint of bubble gum on the nose, and intense red fruits flavours on the palate. Dry, with low tannin and medium + acidity, it is a light bodied wine with a medium finish. It’s a perfectly agreeable wine, fine to enjoy by itself or with something light to accompany it. We had it with gyoza (Japanese dumplings).

I hedged my bets and ordered two bottles. I’m so glad I did – I can now look forward to enjoying the second bottle in January or February when we’re in the depths of winter and I need something to put me in a cheery mood!

But for now, let’s celebrate the Beaujolais harvest.

Happy Beaujolais Day!

Three sweet white wines to round off your meal

In the mood for something a little different? Then here are three sweet white wines to enjoy with your dessert. (Or why not try them as an aperitif or with terrine or blue cheese …)

Les Garonelles, Sauternes 2017 

Les Garonelles, Sauternes 37.5cl 2017, Lucien Lurton Collection

This Sauternes wine is a blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes. Pale gold in appearance, it has intense aromas of pear, apricot and peach on the nose, and flavours of passionfruit and apricot on the palate. An elegant, well-balanced wine with a long finish which pairs well with cheesecake, meringue, or a fruit-based dessert. Available Great Wine Co. (£11.50 half bottle)

Disznókö Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2017 (Hungary)

Disznoko Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos

This sweet wine from the Tokaj region of Hungary is a recent new discovery and a really pleasant surprise.  Made from a blend of Furmint and Hárslevelü grapes, it has pronounced aromas of honey, marmalade and dried apricot from the get-go, leading to intense flavours of peach, dried apricot, honey and orange peel on the palate. A full-bodied wine, with medium acidity and a long finish, this is a well-balanced, very good wine. Available from Waitrose (£19.99)

Château de Géraud, Monbazillac 2014

Château de Géraud

A delightful wine from Monbazillac, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle grapes. Intense aromas of marmalade, honey and lemon on the nose, and lemon and orange on the palate.  A balanced wine with medium acidity and a long finish, we enjoyed it with a panna cotta with caramel drizzle – heavenly. Cambridge Wine Merchants (£13.99)

Diner we befuddled – with this? (3,4). Crossword clue.

Answer at foot of page

Three good value, medium bodied red wines to tempt your palate this week – two Old World wines and one from New Zealand. Enjoy!

Domaine Tavian Brouilly 2019 (Beaujolais)

If you’re looking for a fragrant, well-balanced, medium-bodied Beaujolais to enjoy with a mid-week pasta or chicken dish, this should tick the boxes. Quite well defined aromas of raspberry, candy, red cherry, and a hint of violet, on the nose, and fresh fruity flavours of raspberry and strawberry on the palate. This is a dry wine, with high acidity, medium tannins and a medium finish. A good value Beaujolais. (Waitrose, £12.99)

Mud House Pinot Noir 2019 (Central Otago)

A Pinot Noir from the Central Otago region of New Zealand, this wine has red cherry, raspberry and bramble aromas on the nose, with a hint of peppery spice, and fresh fruit flavours of raspberry and redcurrant on the palate. A balanced wine, medium bodied with medium tannins and a medium finish, this goes well with lamb, or by itself. Majestic Wine £13.99 (£10.99 Mix Six), also available at Waitrose.

Louis Latour Bourgogne Pinot Noir, 2019

A youthful Burgundy Pinot Noir with well-defined red fruit aromas of raspberry, redcurrant and red cherry with overtones of cloves, spice and earth on the nose, and quite intense red fruit flavours on the palate. A dry wine, with high acidity and medium tannins, it has medium alcohol and a medium finish. A good wine to pair with lamb or chicken. Majestic Wine £16.99 (£12.99 Mix Six).

Answer to crossword clue: red wine

Three warming reds for Bonfire Night!

It’s the time of year when the air is usually filled with the smell of bonfires and the sound of cracks and bangs as fireworks go off. Unfortunately this year, we are all likely to be limited to the back garden with a few sparklers … but that shouldn’t stop us enjoying a warming glass or two of red wine afterwards …. Here are three to consider:

Château Caronne Ste.Gemme Haut-Médoc, 2015

This is a well-balanced Bordeaux red from the Left Bank. A Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated blend, it has bramble, cooked fruit and blackberry aromas on the nose, with a hint of vanilla, toast and spice.  There are pronounced stewed fruit flavours on the palate, together with a hint of earthiness, and this is a medium bodied wine with medium alcohol and high tannins. It is a very good wine, and just the ticket on a chilly autumn night.  Majestic Wine £16.99 (£14.99 Mix Six)

Two Hands ‘Angels’ Share’ Shiraz, Australia 2019

This is a very good full-bodied wine from McLaren Vale with high alcohol, medium tannins and a nice long finish. Pronounced blackberry, blackcurrant and blueberry aromas on the nose, with hints of white pepper and chocolate, and a rich black fruitiness intermingled with a light spiciness on the palate. A well-balanced wine which will go well with a beef casserole or other substantial dish. Majestic Wine £21.99 (£17.99 Mix Six)

Casillero de Diablo Reserva 2017, Central Valley, Chile

A straightforward Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon from the warm Central Valley region. Notes of blackberry, red cherry, bell pepper and cloves on the nose, with quite intense fruit flavours of blackcurrant and plum on the palate. A dry wine with high acidity and medium tannins, it has medium alcohol and a medium finish. Not a complex wine, but perfectly fine for mid-week, with or without the fireworks! Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Asda, around £8.