France’s little hidden gem – the wines of the Southwest

If you enjoyed the Cahors Malbec the other day, you might want to try these other wines from the southwest region of France. Lying between the Pyrenees and the Massif Central, and somewhat overshadowed by neighbouring Bordeaux, this area is a veritable cornucopia of interesting grape varieties, many not found elsewhere, and is in my view, a greatly under-rated wine producing region. The huge diversity of grape varieties and wine styles found here is what makes the region so compelling for the wine enthusiast. 

Mind you, the names don’t all roll off the tongue so easily. On the red side, for example, you have Fer Servadou (also known as Mansois, Braucol and Pinenc depending on locality), Duras, Malbec, Tannat, and Négrette. And on the white side, Mauzac, Len de l’El (Loin de l’Oeil), Arrufiac, Petit Courbu, and Gros / Petit Manseng are some of the indigenous grape varieties.

And with this wide variety of grapes, so too the wines they produce: from the sweet white wines of Monbazillac and the Merlot blends of Bergerac, to the historic ‘black wines’ of Cahors and the bold reds of Madiran, the dry and sweet white wines of Jurançon, at the foot of the Pyrenees, and the subtle and unique wines of the Gaillac appellation. There is something for everyone in this part of France and there are some wonderful dishes and cheeses to pair them with. It’s a gastronomic delight.

Ossau-Iraty, for example, goes well with a Gascony white; a light red Marcillac is a great match for a platter of cold meats; and duck confit with a Cahors or Madiran red go together like a horse and carriage. Try a chicken dish or seafood with a Gaillac white, and a cassoulet is a perfect match for a Gaillac red. 

Southwest France is an Aladdin’s cave of new discoveries and here are three wines from the region to whet your appetite. And all under a tenner!

Gaillac Rouge 2019, Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference

This dry red wine is a blend of local grape varieties Braucol and Duras, together with the more familiar Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. With aromas of blackberry and cherry, and a hint of peppery spice on the nose, and flavours of raspberry, black cherry and blackberry with a hint of vanilla on the palate. Medium-bodied, with medium tannins and medium alcohol, this is a well-balanced wine which will go well with a stew or casserole. Sainsbury’s £8

Jurançon Sec, Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference

Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Jurançon Sec 75cl

Tucked away in the foothills of the Pyrenees near the town of Pau, Jurançon has been known for its wines since the Middle Ages. This Jurançon Sec is a dry wine made from Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng grapes, both indigenous to the region. With aromas of apple, pear, peach and nectarine on the nose, and apple, pear and grapefruit on the palate, the wine has medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol and a medium (+) finish.

This is a well-balanced wine which can be served as an aperitif or with a spicy Asian dish. We enjoyed it with Korean Yangnyeom chicken – spicy, fried chicken. It’s a great introduction to this oft overlooked wine. Sainsbury’s £7.50

Gaillac Blanc 2019, Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference

Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Gaillac Blanc 75cl

This is another recent discovery. The Gaillac Blanc is made from the Len de l’El (Loin de l’oeil) grape, so called because the bunches of grapes hang quite low, so quite some way from the bud (the ‘eye’) they grew from. The grape is indigenous to the region and all Gaillac Blanc wines must contain at least a percentage of it to qualify for the appellation.

A crisp, dry white wine of medium (+) acidity, this is a medium bodied wine which is very well balanced. It has aromas of apple, pear, peach and orange on the nose, with apple, grapefruit and orange flavours, and a hint of flintiness on the palate. An excellent match for fish. Sainsbury’s £8

Looking for something to brighten up these dark, grey January days? This little bit of sunshine from Surrey is just the ticket.

Denbies’ Surrey Gold

If you’re looking for something to brighten up these dark, grey January days, this little bit of sunshine from Surrey is just the ticket. It’s also a great opportunity to branch out from firm favourites such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay, and explore something different – a good old English wine.

Denbies’ Surrey Gold is a blend of Müller-Thurgau, Ortega and Bacchus grapes. Older readers might remember Müller-Thurgau from the 80s when Liebfraumilch and the like were all the rage in the UK. Believe me, this is a step up from those rather bland German wines of old.

Ortega is a Müller-Thurgau/Siegerrebe crossing which adds a touch of sweetness and aromatics to a blend. And Bacchus, a rising-star in English wine making, is another German crossing (Müller-Thurgau / Riesling-Silvaner), and brings flavour and character to a blend. (Great name for a grape variety, to boot!)

Denbies have been producing wine since the late 1980s and have grown to become the largest wine producer in the UK. They now produce over a million bottles of wine a year.

Surrey Gold is an off-dry white wine with intense floral aromas of elderflower and honeysuckle on the nose, and flavours of green apple, lemon and peach on the palate. There is also a pleasant flintiness and a hint of spice. The wine has medium acidity and a medium (+) finish, and is medium-bodied. The off-dry nature of the wine makes it a good match for a spicy or an Asian-inspired dish.

This is a great introduction to English wines.

Waitrose (£9.99)

A Malbec – but not from Argentina …

Le Grand Retour, Malbec de Cahors 2018

Like most people you probably think of Argentina when you think of Malbec. That is hardly surprising since over 70% of wines produced from Malbec grapes are from the country. But its origin, of course, was France, southwest France, where once upon a time the ‘black wine’, as it was known, accounted for more than half of the exports from the port of Bordeaux. After a period of decline lasting several hundred years until the latter half of the 20th century, efforts were made to revive Malbec in its home region.

And very successful they were, too. By 1971, the Cahors region had achieved Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) status and rightly so. However, only around 4,000 hectares of the vineyards that are designated AOC Cahors cultivate Malbec grapes, and so Malbec from Cahors is not seen as much as its Argentinian cousin.

But this wine from Georges Vigouroux is an excellent example of what a Cahors Malbec can be. The Vigouroux family has been producing Malbec since 1887 and was instrumental in the work to raise the profile of the grape variety in the Cahors region from the 1940s.

Le Grand Retour (The Great Comeback) celebrates Malbec’s revival in Cahors. It is a dry wine with medium (+) acidity and medium tannins, and has aromas of blackberry, bramble and spice on the nose, and blackberry, jamminess and a hint of chocolate and liquorice on the palate. It is a well-balanced wine, medium-bodied, with a medium (+) finish and medium alcohol.

We enjoyed it with duck but it will go well with lamb, and it is a perfect match for cassoulet, the rustic pork and bean casserole from the region. Call me sentimental, but I do like to try wines with a back story and this is one that has a happy ending!  Majestic £11.99 (Mix Six £9.99)